Why alterations are worth it
Ready-made clothes are cut for an average body that nobody quite has. A shorter hem, a waist taken in or sleeves shortened can make a garment look as if it was made for you. This matters even more when you buy secondhand, where you choose from what is there rather than from every size.
Easy, moderate and hard changes
| Usually simple | Moderate | Hard or rarely worth it |
|---|---|---|
| Hemming trousers, skirts and plain dresses | Taking in a waistband at the back seam | Changing shoulder width on a jacket |
| Replacing buttons | Tapering trouser legs | Making a garment much larger |
| Taking in side seams on simple tops | Shortening sleeves with buttons or vents | Lengthening without enough hem fabric |
| Shortening straps | Replacing a zipper | Re-cutting a coat to a new length with pockets |
| Darning a small hole | Adding darts for shape | Altering heavily beaded or sequined fabric |
Making something larger depends on the seam allowance, the extra fabric inside the seams. Many modern garments have very little, so a tailor may only gain a small amount. Ask before buying a piece that is too small.
Shop for the shoulders
For tops, jackets and coats, choose the size that fits your shoulders and chest. Shoulders are the hardest part to change, while the waist, sides and sleeves are often adjustable. For trousers and skirts, fit the hips and seat first, since the waist and hem are easier to alter.
How to ask for an alteration
- Wear or bring the shoes and underlayers you plan to wear with the piece, since they change where hems fall.
- Put the garment on and show the tailor what bothers you, such as gaping at the back of a waistband.
- Let the tailor pin it and look in the mirror. Sit down and move to check comfort.
- Ask what is possible and whether any change would affect other parts, such as pockets or a pattern.
- Ask when it will be ready and whether a second fitting is needed.
Costs vary widely by area, garment and how complex the work is. Ask for a quote before agreeing, and compare it with how much you will wear the piece.
What you can try at home
Sewing on a button, closing a split seam and fixing a dropped hem with hand stitches are good first skills. Fusible hem tape can hold a hem on some fabrics if you do not sew, but it may not survive many hot washes, so check the product's instructions. Leave tailored jackets, linings and anything with a pattern to match to a professional.
Can jeans be hemmed and keep the original hem?
Many tailors offer a method that keeps the original worn hem and moves it up. Ask for it by describing what you want: the shorter length with the original hem look.
Can a dress be shortened if it has a lining?
Usually, yes. The tailor shortens both the outer fabric and the lining. Shaped hems, slits and layered skirts take more work.